Hong Kong has the big city specials like smog, odour, 14 million elbows and an insane love of clatter. But it's also efficient, hushed and peaceful: the transport network is excellent, the shopping centres are sublime, and the temples and quiet corners of parks are contemplative oases.

The best thing about being in Hong Kong is getting flummoxed and fired by the confluences and contradictions of a Chinese city with multi-Asian and Western elements. It's about savouring new tastes, weaving through a human gridlock and humming some dumb Cantopop tune while slurping your noodles.

Kowloon(Chinese spell name is Jiulong) is one of the four parts that makes the Hong Kong territory these days. The tip of the peninsula, which faces Hong Kong island, is probably the best known part of Kowloon. It is one big melting pot of streets crawling with shops and tourists, covered up under a spell of neon at night. In this sense, the 'nine dragons' (the literal translation of 'Kowloon') beat the touristy tiger of the neighbouring Hong Kong island!

Although it might appear as if money is the only ruling factor here, the current 'Hong Kong Cultural Centre' tries to prove the opposite. Most museums are located in this centre and it offers a good alternative when you have had it with the jade shops, bird markets and fortune-tellerstands in the shopping areas of 'Tsim Sha Tsui' and 'Nathan Road'.

Tsim Sha Tsui, at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula, is the territory's tourist ghetto. It consists of one sq km of shops, restaurants, pubs, topless bars and camera stores. However, Kowloon is also home to the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, the Space Museum, the famous Peninsula Hotel and the Museum of History.

The Promenade, in East Tsim Sha Tsui, is a great place for a stroll, and has wonderful views of Victoria Harbour, particularly at night. The liveliest night market in the territory is on Temple St in Yau Ma Tei.

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